With the windows closed it wasn't as noisy as we were expecting being in the Haute Marais district of busy Paris last night. Weird though with no drapes on any of the windows in the apartment. We are in a double bed so not very big. We slept in this morning so that was a great reward for yesterday's hard work. ;-)
Check out the elevator in our apartment. There is a sign on the inside that reads Maximum 3 Persons. Yes, this is a very small elevator and has the old style doors that open and close. Plus, when you enter on main floor you get in at the front of course. When you get off at the fourth floor, you exit out a side door (not the front one). We've never seen this set-up before. Note--this elevator will fit 3 very slim, very svelte Parisienne bodies--but maybe not "regular" size bodies LOL.
Lana has looked everywhere and it seems our apartment it not equipped with a bread knife. Been muttering something about "what kind of Paris apartment doesn't have a bread knife???!!!???". I have to admit, she seems right on this one. This country lives on baguettes! Our host via email replies that the must have for any Paris apartment is a wine opener. You can't go wrong with that logic! Of course, we carry a wine opener in our suitcase when we travel.
We like our apartment, but it has some unusual layout/structure. Our large bedroom is inclusive of the shower and a bathtub. There is a sink beside our bed. The toilet is in a small room with the washing machine that doubles as a dryer but has not sink so you need to wash your hands in the kitchen. There is no full length mirror--just two thin strips of mirror in the bedroom--one by the bathtub for decoration, and the other above the sink in the bedroom. But they are both placed horizontally and nor vertically so you can really only see your face IF you are 6 feet tall. Lana can barely see herself. Also, you enter the building using a code. You get into the fourth floor with an entry code as well. There is a large key for the apartment door.
We have lots of natural light coming into the dining area/living room. No drapes. Across Rue du Temple (our street) there is an apartment as you can see from the photo below. I took the photo standing and looking straight out. With no drapes there is no privacy in here. That also means when we use the tub or shower although you might need to really be looking from across the street. Last night Lana noticed a dinner party and also 4 people playing cards--she couldn't make out what game there were playing but definitely cards LOL :-)
Lots of champagne glasses in the kitchen though which helps with our entertaining. Weather today in the mid-20s, but 90% humidity. Raining on and off most of the day. We decide to get some shopping in. A short walk to the République Metro station and we get on the #8 Metro subway train heading west. We buy a pack of 10 tickets for only 12.70Euro. You need a ticket to enter and then it spits it out to take before the gates open.
OBSERVATIONS:
(1) For us North Americans it is strange to see so many co-ed bathrooms. They seem quite popular in Paris and when we were south--likely due to the small spaces available. Of course, the urinal is in a room where you can close the door. The toilets are in separate rooms and these can be co-ed. Standing and washing your hands beside a female is to me strange though.
(2) Lana keeps on wanting a tartiflette--a traditional french dish of lardons or sausage, cheese and potatoes. French comfort food? But after two attempts and both times being sold out, no luck yet.
(3) Smoking. Europeans definitely smoke and they can smoke most places. Takes a while to get used to this.
(4) Who doesn't like champagne? Best served after 30 mins in the freezer--cold and crisp!!
(5) We notice very quickly in Paris that the level of service and attitude of the retail employees/servers is dramatically improved over the last two years. How refreshing. They are more friendly, cheerful and engaged. I did read that tourism has declined around 20% so maybe this is one method of trying to win back the tourists. We hope not to encounter that haughty Paris attitude on this visit.
(4) Who doesn't like champagne? Best served after 30 mins in the freezer--cold and crisp!!
(5) We notice very quickly in Paris that the level of service and attitude of the retail employees/servers is dramatically improved over the last two years. How refreshing. They are more friendly, cheerful and engaged. I did read that tourism has declined around 20% so maybe this is one method of trying to win back the tourists. We hope not to encounter that haughty Paris attitude on this visit.
Now that we are back in Paris, we notice it is so multi-cultural and multi-racial. Many of the retail stores speak pretty decent Anglais. Lots of tourists like us wandering around and shopping. We depart at Place de la Madeleine. First stop is Maille (Mustard), but it is undergoing a dramatic renovation and is not open. Lana is eager to visit Chanel. We stop first in their separate shoe store and I find a comfortable seat to wait. She then says she wants to go to the clothing store just around the corner. One hour later she returns. I had no idea she would be gone that long and was getting worried. Plus, she had not purchased anything. C'est la vie! **Lana here--didn't realize I'd been gone for an hour!!! But what an amazing experience--to see all the jewellery, bags (which I don't ever carry but can appreciate a well-made handbag), shoes, then clothes. Can you a blame a woman for taking an hour + to appreciate everything this style icon has to offer? I tried on two bracelets though--although both very nice--couldn't commit to buying as I rarely wear bracelets.
We wander along Rue Saint Honore and Lana is bewitched by a bright pink coat at Tara Jarmon. It just happens that this designer is actually a Canadian by origin. About three unique styles to choose from and Lana selects the more stylish, dressier jacket to purchased. More shopping and we decide to stop for a late lunch at Aux Délices de Manon located on Rue St Honore. While the food was good and service very quick and friendly, the prices were outrageous. For two small bottles of Perrier water we paid 11Euro = $15CDN. What the ____! Lana had a mushroom poof and claims it was delicious--sauteed mushrooms in cream sauce in puff pastry.
Randy's sandwich with Chèvre (Goat cheese) and some tomatoes and lettuce. The bread was incredible.
We stop at Ladurée Royale. Lana loves their macarons and candles. We escape unscathed and only purchased a special croissant for later. During our visit to the shop two years ago, a woman in line with us recommended the Croissant aux Nois. She said it was a specialty of Laduree and that you can't find this type of croissant anywhere in Paris. She recommended we try one--which we did--and we loved it. It's a regular croissant filled with a delicious hazelnut cream. Tres Bon!!!
We decide to walk to Le Bon Marché which means crossing the Seine River by Place de la Concorde and then walking along Boulevard St-Germain. This neighbourhood on the Left Bank is well known and has many furniture stores and other retail shopping opportunities. We got a little lost looking for the store but it was a good long walk.
Lana finds a white chemise (shirt) in a window display at Gerard Darel. It looks great and the style is more of an over-sized look. There are two shirt sizes that Lana tries on. One of the clerks is indignant that "it is an over-sized look and that is how you wear it". If you don't like it, maybe not buy it. Hmmm.... style is personal. Lana does buy the smaller oversize shirt and wears it well tonight at Chez Janou.
We decide to walk to Le Bon Marché which means crossing the Seine River by Place de la Concorde and then walking along Boulevard St-Germain. This neighbourhood on the Left Bank is well known and has many furniture stores and other retail shopping opportunities. We got a little lost looking for the store but it was a good long walk.
Lana finds a white chemise (shirt) in a window display at Gerard Darel. It looks great and the style is more of an over-sized look. There are two shirt sizes that Lana tries on. One of the clerks is indignant that "it is an over-sized look and that is how you wear it". If you don't like it, maybe not buy it. Hmmm.... style is personal. Lana does buy the smaller oversize shirt and wears it well tonight at Chez Janou.
We find Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche. Huge store beside a park and very close to a Metro station - very important. It is linked to La Grand Epicerie under ground which is pretty cool and convenient. I am looking for a crisp white shirt to wear while in Paris, but no luck.
La Grande Epicerie de Paris is located beside Le Bon Marché. Filled with counter after counter of gourmet food item from bread to cheese, to cakes and aisles of honey, oil, mustard. You name it and it's here. This is a photo of paté and the bottom two are within a pastry. Samples were delicious!
We host Jim, Tarlika, Jim Sr. and Darlene at our apartment for pre-dinner champagne. Chez Janou is about a 20 minute walk south into Le Marais district. Our reservation is for 9:30 pm. It is raining, but it is still warm even this late at night. I have directions from Google Maps and as usual they are correct.
Our friends Tina and Adrian are taking the train from London (through the Chunnel) where they live to Gare Nord and are to meet us at the restaurant. We arrive by foot around 9:30, but can't take our table until all eight of us are present. Much like New York, where the entire party must be available, otherwise, you are not seated. Tina and Adrian arrive around 9:45 pm and we are seated. The place is super busy and noisy. There is a lineup outside and people at the bar at the entrance waiting on tables. Remember we are in Paris and people dine very late.
Jim and I figure out the wine choices. We order a bottle of rosé and two bottles of red. The wine list is pretty good, but the prices are more than reasonable. Both wines are excellent and in the low to mid 20Euros range. In France, the entrée is actually the appetizer and the main or plat is what we call the entrée. All the reviews of this casual French bistro talk about the incredible chocolate mousse = hold room for dessert!
Our friends Tina and Adrian are taking the train from London (through the Chunnel) where they live to Gare Nord and are to meet us at the restaurant. We arrive by foot around 9:30, but can't take our table until all eight of us are present. Much like New York, where the entire party must be available, otherwise, you are not seated. Tina and Adrian arrive around 9:45 pm and we are seated. The place is super busy and noisy. There is a lineup outside and people at the bar at the entrance waiting on tables. Remember we are in Paris and people dine very late.
Jim and I figure out the wine choices. We order a bottle of rosé and two bottles of red. The wine list is pretty good, but the prices are more than reasonable. Both wines are excellent and in the low to mid 20Euros range. In France, the entrée is actually the appetizer and the main or plat is what we call the entrée. All the reviews of this casual French bistro talk about the incredible chocolate mousse = hold room for dessert!
The eight of us. At the front Darlene and Jim, then Tarlika and Jim, Lana and Randy and then Tina and Adrian. It is close to 10 pm.
This is one of our mains. Gambas flambées au Pastis. Large shrimp in a liquorice liquer. The sauce was divine and when dipped with the plentiful baguette a crowd pleaser.
Entrée of Canard Magret Fumée salad . Basically, smoked duck salad. We love duck and this salad was delicious and unique as the duck was smoked. All the flavours worked together and more than enough for Lana and I to share.
Our plat of Tagliatelle aux escargots. Of course, you have to try snails and with the pasta it was a good choice. In fact, one of the couples ordered this dish as their starter.
Of course, the chocolate mousse was incredible! As you can see the bowl is gigantic. We think it is enough for the whole restaurant. Each couple shares a plate and some of us have more than one giant scoop. It is very rich, but the chocolate is perfect and it is nice and thick. The mousse was so good that Jim and Darlene had vacuumed their plate before the rest of the table was served! ;-)
Melon liqueur brought by our server at the conclusion of the meal. No charge and this was a fantastic finish. When we finished our shots of the melon and started to leave the restaurant it was after 12 midnight. Total of 100Euros for each couple which was a pretty good deal given the amount of food and wine we consumed. We ordered Muscat wine with our dessert and a Peach liquer.
Jim and the group of four grab a taxi for the trip home to Arc d'Triomphe area (western part of Paris) and Tina, Adrian and us walk through the streets of Marais to Le Haut Marais. Still light rain. Just after the restaurant we encounter recent diners from Chez Janou who are university students from Ontario, Canada. They are pretty drunk and pretty loud. A late night, but lots of fun, good food, wine and conversation.
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