After a long walk down Rue du Temple, I discover these directions are not correct for getting to the M3 Metro at Arts et Métiers station. We check out the map we carry, navigate up a couple of streets and et viola the correct station. We only have one Metro ticket left. We discover the ticket machine will not accept cash so we need to use our Visa card. Oh well, ce'st la vie!
In case you are wondering what the average Paris Metro station is like where you catch the subway. Pretty clean. Most stations have a digital readout of estimated arrival time for next train. No graffiti in the station. Doors don't open automatically from inside or outside as you need to flip the lever upwards.
Arts et Métiers station is beautiful on the inside. Made to look like you are inside a submarine with small art installations to be viewed through the round portholes.
Arts et Métiers station porthole (artwork).
I have written the Google Map directions on a piece of note paper. These directions after exiting the M3 Station Pereire work well. It is a decent day so we decide to sit outside. You can't just pick up the croissants. You need to find a seat and order. The server takes forever to appear despite the fact they are not busy. We order two croissants and ask to see the menu. About 10 minutes later she shows up with no croissants and the menu. The young girl beside us had waited a long time as well just for a coffee. Lana wants a small (25 CH size) and clarifies the small bottle. A while later the server returns with our two croissants and a 50 CH size Badoit. Not worth arguing. The young girl has indicated her coffee is froid (cold). Server takes it in a snit and the girl waits a while then simply gets up and walks away. Can't blame her. After receiving our croissants the server disappears inside. What an attitude. We realize that we have been lucky in many places with the great service. We have to get up and walk inside to ask for the bill and then for two more croissants to go. There are no croissants left - that figures. The croissants were excellent = buttery, flaky, light and airy. Too bad as we are never returning here. I for a fact don't even given her 10Euro cents for a tip.
We walk back to the M3 Metro station and then transfer to the M11 train to arrive at Hotel de Ville station. It is raining in the area and lots of umbrellas about. We are wanting to see the exhibit in the Hotel de Ville building. It has been the scene of many major Paris moments over the centuries including the liberation of Paris in WWII by General Charles de Gaulle. It is a free temporary exhibit of in fact the liberation of Paris in WWII. Lots of photos, videos, old black & white movie footage of this important time. All of this is in French of course. Obviously pictures and movies don't need any language interpretation. It was enjoyable and informative.
Next stop is Mémorial de la Shoah. Described as having the largest collection of documents on the Holocaust in Europe particularly what happened here in France--something people may not be aware of. We navigate our way to this building somewhat hidden from all the more major streets in this part of the Marais. Admittance is free to the permanent and temporary exhibitions which are mostly on the basement level. A good mix of English and French text. The movies and videos are in French of course. It provides a fantastic history lesson of the Jews in France going back many centuries and then what occurred prior to, during and after WWII. The French themselves were very complicit in rounding up Jews for the Nazis. Lots of photos of general scenes and individuals. We both were pretty sad when we finished the exhibit. Armed police outside the Shoah and all bags are checked on entry.
Shoah is a Hebrew word meaning catastrophe. This is the main monument with names of concentration camps on the outside.
We haven't really had lunch except for one delicious croissant each around 12:30 pm. We find a casual place where we can walk in and get a salami/pickle sandwich, two canelés and one Macaron. Wow, as usual the bread in the sandwich was divine. We find some steps at a local church and plunk ourselves down. This will tide us over until dinner later. We find the Jewish Museum, but after reading what it covers we have been pretty well educated at the Shoah. Back to the apartment so Lana can nap and I can update our blog. Starting to lightly rain again.
I have made reservations at Café Le Papillon for 7 pm for the two of us. Another recommendation by Anthony Bourdain. Lana has checked out the menu already! It is located in the Pantheon neighbourhood so we will need to take the M3 eastward and then walk to find Rue de Bagnolet.
We find the restaurant fairly easily. Definitely not a tourist area. In fact, my observation in Paris is that if you don't see any gypsies, beggars, mattresses on the sidewalk or other persons looking for handouts then you are not on in a tourist area. Greeted by Matthew who speaks good english. We get our choice of tables given 7 pm is still pretty early by Paris standards.
Matthew makes us feel at ease. Very much a pub style casual place that happens to serve great food and wine. Prices are very good as well. For two courses of appetizer+main or main+dessert the cost is 21.90Euro. I ask Matthew for his recommendation on a beer and the beer below (La Goudale) was one of the best beer I have ever tasted. Lana ordered a Kir flavoured with raspberry. Another stunner. We had a fantastic dinner and experience. Service was excellent and the bill came quickly after we requested.
All restaurants will bring out a basket of sliced baguette bread. Simply delicious.
Shared appetizer dish of marinated artichoke provencal and mozzarella di buffalo with Kalamata olive paste. The pink matchsticks are raw beet which Lana loved.
Nice glass of red wine, mustard container with Randy's main of crispy lamb shank with onion fondue and roasted eggplant and with "apples short hock"? Lamb cooked perfectly and tender.
Lana ordered the duck breast with four spices and fresh coriander chutney mango blasted apples. Another excellent dish with perfect flavour combinations.
Our dessert of tarte tatin with caramel sesame. The dessert was OK, but not special. The apple was overcooked, but the caramel sesame sauce really enhanced the taste.
A fellow pulled up in his truck and parked near the restaurant totally illegally and didn't seem to care. He came inside and started drinking and socializing. And we thought we'd seen the ultimate of crazy driving back home in Vancouver!!!
This is our last full day in Paris. We arrive back in the apartment around 20:30. Little bit of light rain in the fading sunshine as we near our apartment. Gives us time to update the blog, pack our suitcases with clothes and eight bottles of wine/champagne and figure out how we are getting the train(s) to Charles de Gaulle airport tomorrow morning. Kind of sad to be leaving Paris, but we are on our way to Wiesbaden and their annual wine festival so more fun in store.
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