Pierre was arranging our options for the day. He provided a map and an appointment for a Champagne House visit and degustation for 3:30 pm. Couple of self-guided walking tours and some options for lunch. There are a number of villages/towns in this area. GPS is a requirement based on the number of small roads that wind around the area and the vineyards. We decide to drive to Courteron and explore the Cajoles Champenoises. These are stone huts that are among the various vineyards. What was confusing was despite a map from Pierre and the signage it wasn't really possible to figure out this walk. We drove through the various hills/vineyards without much luck except for below. Interesting structures. Plus, it was raining for most of the time.
Nice sign in the village of Courteron, but not easy to find the start.
We drove among the various vineyards. Champagne grapes are Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier. The vast majority of champagne wines use Pinot Noir and/or Chardonnay. The vineyards are like anywhere else in the world in that they are favoured on hillsides or steep slopes. The farmland is on the flatter ground. The pictures give you an idea of where they are grown. The scale of the Champagne vineyards dwarfs anything you may see in the Okanagan.
We are hungry so it is lunch time. Pierre recommended Le Magny Restaurant located in Les Riceys. It wasn't very busy, but it was clean, tidy and attended by relatively well-to-do diners. The two servers were pretty aloof and english was not spoken. The menus in the restaurants in Champagne have their wine organized by size. 0.25 CH is basically 1/4 of a litre of wine. The photo below is an example of a 0.25 CH Rosé I ordered with my lunch.
Amuse bouche offering of tuna and salmon. Very yummy.
Lana's order of salad duck terrine with pistachio.
Salad of foie gras and duck.
Fromage blanc order. Very soft white cheese that is a kind of dessert and you sprinkle sugar (sucre) on it. Who woulda thought that you put sugar on cheese to enhance the tastes? It was really good!
After lunch we drove to Celles sur Ourse village for another walking opportunity. Eventually, we found the start, but again thwarted by poor directions and the fact you couldn't find an english interpretation online or on the signage. We did get another opportunity to drive among the vineyards. Our appointment for 3:30 pm was coming up so we made our way back to Les Riceys village. We took a brief nap in the car due to the jet lag. We entered Le Caveau des Riceys and they had no idea who we were. They called our host and we discovered we were supposed to be at Champagne Gallimard! Fortunately, it was about a five minute drive. Our first Champagne tour/tasting!
Arnaud Gallimard was our young host and the sixth generation owning and operating this Champagne house. His english was pretty good. He took us on a tour of the cellars below their building. The cellars dated back to the 1600s! He was very informative and we improved our knowledge of champagne production and storage. After the tour, we went back upstairs for a tasting of five different champagnes, inclusive of a rosé champagne. Each champagne had its distinctive taste due to whether it was a 100% Chardonnay or 100% Pinot Noir. Plus the Rosé was unique and 100% Pinot Noir. We purchased two bottles of champagne and Arnaud provided an address for another champagne house in the village of Buxeuil. Off we drive.
Lana's picture of various sizes of champagne bottles.
We found Champagne Moutard and parked. One of the reasons we chose to head here was that in addition to excellent champagne they had a distillery. Thomas was our host and very informative. They are one of the larger Champagne houses in this village with a current inventory of millions of bottles. As well, they own some domaines in Burgundy. There is a lot of money to be made in the Champagne area! We walked to one of their production facilities and had a great tour. He is one of three sons and two cousins that now run the Champagne house and properties. Very many of their facilities are state of the art technology. Below is a picture of their automated champagne bottle turning machines. When the champagne is first bottled they need to turn each bottle gradually until all the sediment is located in the neck of the bottle when it is then disgorged. After disgorged, they add some sugar to taste and then cork and the champagne is cellared for at least three years. We got to taste a number of champagne and distilled drinks like liquors and champagne booze. We purchased three bottles at this house, inclusive of champagne and a liquor. Quite an adventure and fun learning more about champagne and the local area. All champagne grapes are picked by hand.
Pierre had recommended a village restaurant that was the only place open within miles. La Guinguette Des Arts Restaurant within a two minute walk along the river. After we ordered our drinks; carbonated water and a Muscat, the server decided to chat with friends and never returned. I eventually got up and said "pardon" and she then realized we were ordering food as well. The place was pretty dead, but more patrons arrived. Our server spoke zero english, but it all worked out.
You need to order escargots while in France.
Andouillette sausage. OK, she tried to talk me out of this "special", but how can you not want to try pork intestines? The stomach lining of a cow (tripe) is filler. It was pretty good, although a taste that must be cultivated when you get beyond the description.
Lana ordered steak frites. It was pretty good and the fries were delicious. By the way, they don't bring out the ketchup.
Our three course meal included dessert. This is my lemon tart. Yes, tart and sweet. Very good.
Lana ordered the panna cotta dessert and it was simply delicious!
The morning and early afternoon had some rain, but later it became sunny and very warm. A great day in that Lana got to do her champagne tasting and we learned more about champagne production. While I was updating the travel blog, Lana has been fast asleep.
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